:root{
  --paper:#FBF6EF; --surface:#FFFFFF; --surface-2:#FDF9F3;
  --ink:#1A1511; --ink-soft:#5C5346; --line:#ECE1D3;
  --accent:#D9551F; --accent-press:#B8430F; --on-accent:#FFFFFF;
  --teal:#0E7A86; --gold:#C98A1E;
  --ring:#D9551F; --shadow-1:0 1px 2px rgba(40,28,16,.06),0 1px 3px rgba(40,28,16,.05);
  --shadow-2:0 6px 18px -6px rgba(40,28,16,.16),0 2px 6px rgba(40,28,16,.06);
  --shadow-3:0 18px 40px -12px rgba(40,28,16,.24);
  --skel:linear-gradient(100deg,#efe6da 30%,#f6f0e7 50%,#efe6da 70%);
  --r-sm:10px; --r:16px; --r-lg:22px; --maxw:1080px;
}
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark){
 :root{
  --paper:#14110D; --surface:#1D1813; --surface-2:#221C16;
  --ink:#F4EDE3; --ink-soft:#B6AA99; --line:#352C22;
  --accent:#F0793F; --accent-press:#FF8C52; --on-accent:#1A1106;
  --teal:#46C0CC; --gold:#E0B45A; --ring:#F0793F;
  --shadow-1:0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,.5); --shadow-2:0 8px 22px -8px rgba(0,0,0,.6);
  --shadow-3:0 20px 44px -12px rgba(0,0,0,.7);
  --skel:linear-gradient(100deg,#241d16 30%,#2c241b 50%,#241d16 70%);
 }
}
*{box-sizing:border-box}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:72px;-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}
body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);overflow-wrap:break-word;
  font-family:'Inter',-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',sans-serif;
  font-size:17px;line-height:1.65;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;text-rendering:optimizeLegibility}
a,button,.btn,.navlinks a,input,.chk,summary{touch-action:manipulation;-webkit-tap-highlight-color:rgba(217,85,31,.18)}
a{color:var(--accent);text-decoration:none}
a:hover{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:2px}
:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--ring);outline-offset:2px;border-radius:4px}
img{display:block}
.skip{position:absolute;left:-999px;top:0;background:var(--accent);color:var(--on-accent);padding:10px 16px;border-radius:0 0 8px 0;z-index:2000}
.skip:focus{left:0}

/* header / nav */
header.top{position:sticky;top:0;z-index:100;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--surface) 88%, transparent);
  backdrop-filter:saturate(1.4) blur(10px);-webkit-backdrop-filter:saturate(1.4) blur(10px);
  border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.bar{max-width:var(--maxw);margin:0 auto;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:18px;
  padding:10px max(20px,env(safe-area-inset-right)) 10px max(20px,env(safe-area-inset-left))}
.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:9px;font-family:'Newsreader',Georgia,serif;font-weight:700;
  font-size:20px;letter-spacing:.2px;color:var(--ink);flex-shrink:0}
.brand:hover{text-decoration:none}
.navlinks{display:flex;gap:4px;margin-left:auto;overflow-x:auto;scrollbar-width:none;-ms-overflow-style:none}
.navlinks::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
.navlinks a{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;min-height:40px;color:var(--ink-soft);font-size:14.5px;
  font-weight:500;white-space:nowrap;flex-shrink:0;padding:8px 13px;border-radius:999px;
  transition:background .18s ease,color .18s ease}
.navlinks a:hover{background:var(--surface-2);color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none}
.navlinks a[aria-current="page"]{background:var(--accent);color:var(--on-accent)}

main{max-width:var(--maxw);margin:0 auto;
  padding:34px max(20px,env(safe-area-inset-right)) 72px max(20px,env(safe-area-inset-left))}
main>p,main>ol,main>ul{max-width:72ch}
h1{font-family:'Newsreader',Georgia,serif;font-weight:700;font-size:clamp(30px,5vw,46px);
  line-height:1.1;letter-spacing:-.4px;margin:.1em 0 .35em}
h2{font-family:'Newsreader',Georgia,serif;font-weight:600;font-size:clamp(22px,3.2vw,30px);
  line-height:1.2;letter-spacing:-.2px;margin:2em 0 .55em;padding-bottom:8px;
  border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);scroll-margin-top:80px}
h2 small{font-family:'Inter',sans-serif}
h3{font-size:18px;font-weight:700;margin:1.2em 0 .3em;letter-spacing:-.1px}
.lead{font-size:clamp(18px,2.4vw,21px);line-height:1.55;color:var(--ink-soft)}
.eyebrow{font-family:'Inter',sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.12em;
  text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--accent);margin:0 0 4px}

/* pills / chips */
.pills{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin:18px 0;padding:0;list-style:none}
.pill{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:6px;background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);
  color:var(--ink-soft);border-radius:999px;padding:6px 13px;font-size:13.5px;font-weight:500;box-shadow:var(--shadow-1)}

/* buttons */
.btns{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px;margin:22px 0}
.btn{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:9px;background:var(--surface);color:var(--ink);
  border:1px solid var(--line);padding:12px 18px;border-radius:var(--r-sm);font-weight:600;font-size:15px;
  box-shadow:var(--shadow-1);transition:transform .15s ease,box-shadow .2s ease,background .2s ease;min-height:46px}
.btn:hover{text-decoration:none;box-shadow:var(--shadow-2);transform:translateY(-1px)}
.btn:active{transform:translateY(0)}
.btn .ic{flex-shrink:0}
.btn.primary{background:var(--accent);color:var(--on-accent);border-color:transparent}
.btn.primary:hover{background:var(--accent-press)}
.btn.teal{background:var(--teal);color:#fff;border-color:transparent}

/* cards */
.grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(230px,1fr));gap:18px;margin:22px 0}
.card{background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:20px 22px;
  box-shadow:var(--shadow-1);transition:box-shadow .2s ease,transform .2s ease}
.card:hover{box-shadow:var(--shadow-2);transform:translateY(-2px)}
.card h3{margin-top:0;color:var(--ink)}
.card .ic{color:var(--accent);margin-bottom:8px}

/* figures with reserved space + skeleton */
.figure{margin:22px 0;border-radius:var(--r);overflow:hidden;border:1px solid var(--line);box-shadow:var(--shadow-2)}
.ph{position:relative;width:100%;aspect-ratio:16/10;background:#efe6da;overflow:hidden}
.ph::before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:var(--skel);background-size:200% 100%;
  animation:shimmer 1.4s linear infinite}
.ph img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;z-index:1}
@keyframes shimmer{to{background-position:-200% 0}}
.cap{font-size:13.5px;color:var(--ink-soft);padding:10px 14px;background:var(--surface);
  display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:10px;flex-wrap:wrap}
.cap .txt{font-style:italic}
a.credit{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:5px;font-style:normal;font-size:12px;color:var(--ink-soft);
  background:var(--surface-2);border:1px solid var(--line);padding:3px 9px;border-radius:999px;white-space:nowrap}
a.credit:hover{text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink)}
a.credit .ic{width:13px;height:13px}

/* hero */
.hero{position:relative;border-radius:var(--r-lg);overflow:hidden;box-shadow:var(--shadow-3);margin:6px 0 8px}
.hero .ph{aspect-ratio:21/9}
.hero .overlay{position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:2;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:flex-end;
  padding:clamp(18px,4vw,40px);background:linear-gradient(to top,rgba(20,12,6,.72),rgba(20,12,6,.12) 55%,transparent)}
.hero .eyebrow{color:#FFD9A8}
.hero h1{color:#fff;margin:0;text-shadow:0 2px 18px rgba(0,0,0,.4)}
.hero .sub{color:#F4E9DC;font-size:clamp(15px,2.2vw,19px);margin-top:6px;max-width:60ch;text-shadow:0 1px 8px rgba(0,0,0,.4)}
@media(max-width:560px){.hero .ph{aspect-ratio:4/3}}

/* tables */
.tablewrap{overflow-x:auto;-webkit-overflow-scrolling:touch;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);box-shadow:var(--shadow-1);margin:16px 0;background:var(--surface)}
table{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;font-size:14.5px;min-width:520px}
thead th{position:sticky;top:0;background:var(--ink);color:#fff;text-align:left;padding:11px 14px;font-weight:600;font-size:13.5px}
td{padding:11px 14px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);vertical-align:top}
tbody tr:nth-child(even) td{background:var(--surface-2)}
tbody tr:hover td{background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--accent) 7%,var(--surface))}
tr.star td{background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--gold) 16%,var(--surface))}
.num{font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
.tot td{font-weight:800;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--teal) 12%,var(--surface))!important;font-size:15px}
input[type=number]{width:104px;min-height:44px;padding:9px 11px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:8px;font-size:16px;
  background:var(--surface);color:var(--ink);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
input[type=number]:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--ring);outline-offset:1px}

/* day cards (expandable) */
.daycard{position:relative;background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);border-left:4px solid var(--accent);
  border-radius:var(--r);margin:14px 0;box-shadow:var(--shadow-1);overflow:hidden;transition:box-shadow .2s}
.daycard:hover{box-shadow:var(--shadow-2)}
.daycard.must{border-left-color:var(--gold)}
.daycard>summary{list-style:none;cursor:pointer;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:14px;padding:15px 18px;min-height:44px}
.daycard>summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.dc-main{flex:1;min-width:0}
.daycard .d{font-size:12px;font-weight:700;color:var(--accent);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.07em}
.daycard.must .d{color:var(--gold)}
.dc-title{display:block;font-family:'Newsreader',Georgia,serif;font-size:18px;font-weight:700;margin:.12em 0 .22em;color:var(--ink)}
.teaser{display:block;margin:0;color:var(--ink-soft);font-size:14.5px}
.chev{flex-shrink:0;color:var(--ink-soft);transition:transform .2s ease}
.daycard[open]>summary .chev{transform:rotate(180deg)}
.daycard[open]>summary{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.dc-body{padding:14px 18px 16px;animation:fadein .25s ease}
.dc-fig{margin:0 0 14px;border-radius:12px;overflow:hidden;border:1px solid var(--line);box-shadow:var(--shadow-1)}
.dc-fig .cap{padding:8px 12px;font-size:12.5px}
@keyframes fadein{from{opacity:0;transform:translateY(-4px)}to{opacity:1;transform:none}}
.dl{margin:9px 0;color:var(--ink-soft);line-height:1.55}
.tag{display:inline-block;font-size:11px;font-weight:700;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.04em;
  padding:2px 8px;border-radius:6px;margin-right:9px;vertical-align:1px}
.tag-do{background:var(--accent);color:var(--on-accent)}
.tag-eat{background:var(--gold);color:#1A1106}
.tag-expect{background:var(--teal);color:#fff}
.tag-tip{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper)}

ul.clean{padding-left:0;list-style:none}
ul.clean li{position:relative;padding:7px 0 7px 26px;border-bottom:1px dashed var(--line)}
ul.clean li:last-child{border-bottom:none}
ul.clean li::before{content:"";position:absolute;left:4px;top:15px;width:7px;height:7px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--accent)}
ol.clean{padding-left:22px}ol.clean li{margin:9px 0}

.note{background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--gold) 10%,var(--surface));border:1px solid color-mix(in srgb,var(--gold) 34%,var(--line));
  border-left:4px solid var(--gold);padding:14px 18px;border-radius:var(--r-sm);margin:18px 0;color:var(--ink)}

.mapframe{height:74vh;height:74dvh;min-height:440px;border-radius:var(--r);overflow:hidden;box-shadow:var(--shadow-2);border:1px solid var(--line)}
.toolbtn{font-size:13px;padding:7px 13px;border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--surface);color:var(--ink);
  border-radius:999px;cursor:pointer;font-weight:600;transition:background .18s}
.toolbtn:hover{background:var(--surface-2)}
.chk{display:flex;align-items:flex-start;gap:12px;padding:12px 14px;background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);
  border-radius:var(--r-sm);margin:8px 0;transition:background .18s}
.chk:hover{background:var(--surface-2)}
.chk input{margin-top:3px;width:20px;height:20px;accent-color:var(--accent);flex-shrink:0;cursor:pointer}
.chk.high{border-left:4px solid var(--accent)}
.chk label{cursor:pointer}
.chk .when{color:var(--ink-soft);font-size:13px}
.chk.done label b{text-decoration:line-through;color:var(--ink-soft)}

footer{max-width:var(--maxw);margin:0 auto;color:var(--ink-soft);font-size:13.5px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);
  padding:26px max(20px,env(safe-area-inset-right)) max(48px,env(safe-area-inset-bottom)) max(20px,env(safe-area-inset-left))}

/* ---------- mobile ---------- */
@media (max-width:640px){
  body{font-size:16px}
  .bar{gap:10px}
  main{padding-top:22px;padding-bottom:56px}
  h2{margin-top:1.5em}
  .navlinks a{min-height:44px;padding:10px 13px}
  .btns .btn{flex:1 1 200px;justify-content:center}
  .grid{gap:14px;margin:18px 0}
  .card{padding:16px 18px}
  .figure,.hero{margin-left:0;margin-right:0}
  .daycard{padding:14px 16px}
  ul.clean li{padding-left:24px}
  .cap{font-size:13px}
}
@media (max-width:380px){
  .brand span{font-size:18px}
  .btns .btn{flex-basis:100%}
}

/* ---------- entrance animations (only when JS is on) ---------- */
.scrollbar{position:fixed;top:0;left:0;height:3px;width:100%;transform:scaleX(0);transform-origin:left;
  background:linear-gradient(90deg,var(--accent),var(--gold));z-index:200;will-change:transform;pointer-events:none}
html.js main h2,html.js main .card,html.js main .figure,html.js main .daycard,
html.js main .tablewrap,html.js main .btns,html.js main .note,html.js main .pills{
  opacity:0;transform:translateY(18px);
  transition:opacity .55s ease,transform .6s cubic-bezier(.16,1,.3,1);will-change:opacity,transform}
html.js main .is-in{opacity:1!important;transform:none!important}
/* hero entrance on load */
html.js .hero .overlay>*{animation:riseIn .7s cubic-bezier(.16,1,.3,1) both}
html.js .hero .overlay .eyebrow{animation-delay:.06s}
html.js .hero .overlay h1{animation-delay:.16s}
html.js .hero .overlay .sub{animation-delay:.28s}
html.js .hero .ph img{animation:heroZoom 1.4s ease both}
@keyframes riseIn{from{opacity:0;transform:translateY(20px)}to{opacity:1;transform:none}}
@keyframes heroZoom{from{transform:scale(1.06)}to{transform:scale(1)}}

@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce){
  *{animation-duration:.001ms!important;animation-iteration-count:1!important;transition-duration:.001ms!important;scroll-behavior:auto!important}
  html.js main h2,html.js main .card,html.js main .figure,html.js main .daycard,
  html.js main .tablewrap,html.js main .btns,html.js main .note,html.js main .pills{opacity:1!important;transform:none!important}
  .scrollbar{display:none}
}